1. Identity: proving which cat this is
The pedigree certificate, original or a copy bearing the issuer's stamp. Check that the registered name matches the cat you bought, that the cattery prefix is right, and that the date of birth agrees with reality.
Transfer or ownership-change paperwork. Many associations provide a dedicated transfer form, and signing it is what stops you from being blocked later when registering as owner or entering a show.
A purchase or transfer agreement. At minimum it should state both parties, the cat's identity (breed, colour, sex, date of birth, microchip number), the parents, whether the transfer is pet or breeding quality, the price and payment method, the health clause and its exclusions, and how disputes are handled. It is worth adding one line: where verbal promises conflict with the written agreement, the written version prevails.
2. Health: proving the current condition
Vaccination booklet or immunisation record. Each shot's date, vaccine type and batch number should appear, along with the recommended date for the next one. A common schedule is core vaccination at around 8, 12 and 16 weeks with boosters as advised — follow your own vet rather than any generic timetable.
Deworming record. Dates for internal and external treatment, the product used, and the next due date.
Microchip number and any associated registration, where applicable. If a chip has been implanted, have it scanned on the spot and confirm the number matches the paperwork.
Genetic test reports, or copies of the parents'. At minimum you want results for this kitten's parents covering HCM, SMA and PK Def.
A pre-delivery health check or a veterinarian's travel-clearance note. Some catteries run a basic check before handover, and asking for the result is entirely reasonable.
3. History: proving how it was raised
Litter record: date of birth, number of kittens in the litter, birth weight.
Weight curve, at least for the past few weeks. It serves both as a health reference and as the baseline against which you judge whether the kitten is eating properly once home.
Feeding notes: the exact brand and formula of food it is on now, how many meals and how much per meal, the litter brand, and any supplements or medication it has had. Do not switch food for the first two weeks — that single instruction matters more than any other advice here.
Neutering agreement. Where the kitten is transferred as pet quality with neutering stipulated, set out the agreed timing, who pays, and where responsibility sits.
4. What to do on the day itself
Bring a properly sized airline-compliant crate or a sturdy carrier with bedding already in it, and do not carry the cat loose into the car. Verify the microchip number, and confirm the colour and sex once more in person. Weigh the kitten there and record the number as your comparison point for week one. Look at eyes, nose, ears and rear for cleanliness, and check the coat for bald patches or dandruff; raise anything obvious on the spot and write it into the handover note. Collect the items coming with it: transition food (a week's supply at least), the litter it is used to, and a small blanket or toy carrying its scent. These noticeably reduce stress. Get after-sales contact details and agree check-in points — for example how it is settling at 48 hours, and a local vet visit within the first week.
5. Once it is home
Keep the cat confined to one quiet room at first, with water, food, litter and a hiding spot all in the same space, rather than giving it the run of the house. Most cats begin eating and exploring within 24–72 hours. Even if it only hides, a normal pattern of consumption in food, water and litter usually means it is simply adjusting.
If it eats nothing at all for more than 48 hours, or shows persistent vomiting or diarrhoea, laboured breathing, or profound lethargy, contact a veterinarian promptly and let the cattery know as well. A local health check within three to seven days is also worth scheduling, both to confirm its baseline condition and to create a record that will prove useful whenever you change food or need veterinary care later.
6. How handover works at PishPish
PishPish Cattery is located in Tuoyibaoledi Town, Shaya County, Aksu Prefecture, Xinjiang. Kittens are handed over in person, with visits arranged in advance by WeChat. We keep a verifiable growth record for every cat covering weight, vaccination and deworming, and provide the corresponding records together with identity and transfer documents at handover, including an on-the-spot microchip check where one has been implanted. Where arrangements must be made at a distance, we confirm all of the above in writing before scheduling the handover.
